Following the rainy episode—more like a deluge—on October 9th of this year, good gear is crucial. When choosing a technical jacket or windbreaker, how can you tell if it's effective against the rain, given that the assurance of waterproof clothing also means protection against the wind? The VEST PARIS team provides you with the answers.
What waterproof technical materials?
Laminated fabrics are the key to achieving effective waterproofing while maintaining your comfort, particularly by promoting the wicking of perspiration. A laminated fabric is simply the combination of two materials, one of which is a technical membrane. These two materials are bonded together, and it is the membrane that provides the waterproofing performance.
We all know Gore-Tex or EVent, but there are many other membranes that are just as effective (or even more so) and are designed to block water while allowing human perspiration to escape.
Among these laminated fabrics, suppliers such as Majocchi, Schoeller, Sympatex and Loro Piana offer very effective products with finishes that can sometimes be very luxurious.
What is a laminated membrane?
A waterproof membrane bonded to a fabric is a layer strategically integrated into the construction of a garment to make it weatherproof. This membrane is usually made of materials such as polyurethane or PTFE and is attached to the outer fabric.
It prevents water from penetrating while allowing the man's perspiration to escape, thus ensuring comfort and protection.
This technology is commonly used in outdoor clothing and sporting goods. More urban brands like VEST PARIS and luxury brands like Prada, Loro Piana, Woolrich, and Moncler also use these technologies.
Can all fabrics be fitted with a membrane?
No, not all fabrics can be equipped with a membrane. For a fabric to be waterproof, it must be designed with special materials and a specific structure.
Membranes are strategically integrated during fabric manufacturing to ensure waterproofing. Regular fabrics cannot be fitted with waterproof membranes after manufacture as this requires specific design and materials from the outset.
Loro Piana is the exception that proves the rule with its Storm and Clima System range, as it manages to combine natural materials like cashmere or natural wool with technical membranes. The result is exceptional but requires unique expertise.
Welded or heat-sealed seams known as sealed seams
Please note that a membrane alone is not enough to make a garment waterproof; other additional criteria are essential, including waterproof seams. A jacket will never be waterproof if the seams are not also waterproof. When choosing a so-called "waterproof" jacket, make sure that it has reinforced and sealed seams to prevent any water infiltration.
How to seal a seam? The heat sealing method involves first sewing all the seams and then sticking sealing strips called tape over all of these seams.
Welding is another technique that does not apply to all membrane materials. It allows two fabrics to be bonded together without first sewing them.
Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatment
Often a raincoat has a DWR coating that makes water slide off the surface of the fabric.
Be careful to distinguish between waterproofing and water repellency. Water repellency is an additional treatment that does not make the garment waterproof but allows it to wick away water. This treatment is temporary and requires regular re-treatment.
Waterproof zippers
Another essential element in the waterproofness of a garment is the quality of its zippers. There are two types of zippers that allow you to achieve the desired performance: waterproof zippers and injected zippers.
Waterproof zippers are more commonly used in the sports world, while injected zippers are more commonly used by higher-end brands because they offer a more refined look. This is particularly the case with Vest Paris and Prada.
The hood
There are several types of waterproof hoods designed for different uses and weather conditions. Here's a list of the main hoods that are ideal for cycling in particular.
The adjustable hood features drawstrings for a custom fit, providing protection from wind and rain.
The removable waterproof hood offers the option of being detached from the jacket for added versatility and a more understated look.
The visor hood provides better protection from the sun and rain, ideal for water activities.
The wraparound hood covers more of the head and neck for maximum protection.
For winter, you can look for more warmth around the head with a fleece-lined hood.
The jacket's integrated hood with a stand-up collar provides added neck and head protection and stows away discreetly when not in use.
Finally, the anorak-style hood that covers the head and offers great protection against the elements.
The waterproof rating
The waterproof rating of fabrics is essential for assessing a material's ability to repel water. It is often expressed in millimeters (mm) and indicates the maximum water pressure a fabric can withstand before allowing moisture to pass through. For example, a fabric rated at 10,000 mm can withstand a water column of 10,000 mm without allowing water to pass through. The higher the rating, the more waterproof the fabric.
In conclusion
When choosing a waterproof jacket, you must ensure that all of these technical elements are met without exception. If one of these conditions is not met, the waterproofing is not 100% guaranteed.